To serve

www.infoportwine.com
To serve, to drink and to combine.
03/01/04. Gew. 05/03/05 several links;02/09/06;03/01/06;03/01/07;07/04/07;05/05/07;15/03/08.

Contents:
1. Generally. - 2. Type or brand. - 3. To decant. - 4. Crust. - 5. Port tongs. - 6. Glasses. - 7. Temperature. - 8. To serve. - 9. To combine. - 10. Some combinations. - 11. Vintages. - 12. Cocktails.

1. Generally.
Drinking Port is possible at anytime of day and on every occasion, although we have to admit that we have never tried it at breakfast ourselves.
It is nonsense to restrict the drinking of Port to an aperatif or dessert. It can also be delicious with combinations at lunch and dinner, as an after-dinner drink, a drink at receptions or late in the evening.
A good glass late in the evening has our personal preference.

2. Type or brand.
You yourself can best figure out which type or brand of Port suits you on different occasions and in different combinations. Do not let yourself be governed by any single rule. It is your taste that matters, not someone else’s or the majority’s. The examples we give in this article are only meant to provide you with ideas and to set you on your way.
There is an enormous diversity in tastes and qualities within the total Port offer. Neither the views of producers nor consumers (national preferences, see Files/Types 1m.) are unanimous.
To determine which Port suits you best, you can organize your own tasting. Take a dark, fruity LBV (for example Warre’s, Noval or Dow’s) and a 20 years old Tawny or Colheita. Taste them in turn. Should you prefer the LBV, also give Reservas and Rubies a try. If you like the 20 year old Tawny best, you should certainly try other Aged Tawnies and several years of Colheitas too.
Whatever type you may prefer, in both cases you will greatly appreciate the really matured Vintages.

3. To decant.
Before you open a bottle you should first determine whether it should be decanted. This is actually not necessary for filtered Ports, unless you have the experience that aerating the wine does it good. Unfiltered Ports (see Files/Types 1d) almost always need to be decanted.

When unfiltered Ports have ripened for years the wine will first have to be separated from the crust. Put the bottle upright where you want to decant it, preferably at least 24 hours in advance. Try to move the bottle as little as possible while uncorking and pouring it out in one continuous motion. You often read that you can see the verge of the crust against the light of a candle, but the glass of many Port bottles is so dark that this will not be possible. So stop in good time. There is nothing wrong in saving what remains by pouring it in a glass through a funnel with filter.

Generally speaking 10 to 20 years old Vintages can be decanted some hours before, but with the older ones this is best done just before serving.

However, in the Port Wine industry it is very camion to get a Vintage from the cellar shortly before consumption. 07/04/07. Paul Symington has the following comment on this: “To decant, simply stand the bottle up-right for half an hour or so, pull the cork with care, leave the bottle for a few minutes and then pour into a clean jug or decanter. The natural sediment will easily be left in the bottle if poured with a steady hand.”
At http://www.fortheloveofport.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=81&Itemid=67 you can find much more useful advices from him, Christian Seely and George Sandeman, including about the differences in maturing by storage conditions and the double decanting of still too young Vintages.

The American Port guru Roy Hersh propagates a very different approach, though he is the first to call his views controversial. He was inspired by, amongst others, the in 2002 deceased celebrity Bruce Guimaraens (Fonseca). Hersh recommends the following times between decanting and serving:
-           7 years or less: 10 - 12 hours,
-           8 - 15 years old: 8 - 10 hours,
-         16 - 25 years old: 6 - 8 hours,
-         26 - 35 years old: 4 - 6 hours,
-         36 - 45 years old: 3 - 5 hours,
-         46 - 60 years old: 2 - 3 years,
-         60 years old: 1 - 3 hours.
However he also indicates that differences within a harvest year can be necessary. An extensive article by Roy Hersh about this subject can be found at: http://www.fortheloveofport.com/articles/decanting.htm

In his book “A Winelover’s Guide to Port”, João Paulo Martins recommends not to decant very old Vintages, Tawnies and Colheitas. He considers them to be too delicate.

4. Crust.
It would be a waste to throw away the crust. It can be used, with or without some Port, in all kinds of dishes.
In her brochure Porto (Icep New York), Pasquele Iocca recommends to serve the crust on a piece of toast the next morning.

5. Port tongs.

It can be difficult to remove the cork if a bottle is very old. The use of port tongs can then come in handy. Many good wine shops and some auction sites offer Port tongs.
Make sure the jaws of the tongs red- to white-hot and clasp them for 1 to 2 minutes firmly around the neck of the bottle a little below the cork. If you then fold a wet, ice-cold cloth around the neck, the glass will break without splinters.

6. Glasses.
Port Wine always deserves a good glass. It should be tulip-shaped and not too small. You should be able to swirl and smell the wine.
The official glass of the Port industry is the best choice for a fair price (see our News item of 20/04/02). It has been designed by the Portuguese architect Álvaro Siza Vieira in commission of the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto and in cooperation with the AEVP (organization of the large shippers). This glass is available in all IVDP establishments, in some wine shops and at some auction sites.
Riedel’s specially designed crystal glasses for Port are really out of the ordinary, but also expensive. See: www.riedel.com and link “Collections”, “Wine & Glass Guide” and “LBV, Tawny or Vintage”.
But if none of these glasses is available, take a not too large, tulip-shaped glass for table wine for example the one for white wine.
Many years ago his doctor told a member of the Sandeman family that he could have only one glass of Port a day. So he had a special glass made … it could hold a whole bottle.

7. Temperature.
Port is very often served too warm. This makes the drinking unpleasant as the alcohol becomes too prominent. Too cold is less critical as you can postpone drinking for a while or warm the glass with both hands a little. We always drink our Port Wine (all types) from the fridge in hot summers.

Pedro Tiago Serpa Oliva, manager of the Solar do Vinho do Porto in Lisboa, told us in May 2003 that he always keeps his Ports for group tastings in the fridge. They are exactly the right temperature at the time they are poured out and served.

White Port is always served chilled, the dryer the Port the cooler.

In the Portuguese magazine Revista de Vinhos of August 2002, João Alfonso recommends a temperature of 13-16° Celsius for old Tawnies and Colheitas and a temperature of 15-18° C for Vintages.

In the Dutch newspaper De Telegraaf of 25/07/03, Huyshe Bower of Taylor’s recommends 10° for old Tawnies and Colheitas and 12° C for Vintages. He also recommends 12° C for Ruby and for the other red Port types.

8. To serve.
Serving Port Wine is surrounded with myths and traditions.This is not strange for a drink so closely associated with British social life, both past and present.
Traditionally, Port always moves around the table in a clockwise direction, therefore from right to left. The host fills the glass of the guest on his right. He then passes the Port to the guest on his left who, in his turn, pours out the host ‘s glass and so on.
One of the explanations of this is that it was seen as sign of friendship and peace to the person sitting on his left. Pouring a glass of Port with your right hand would prevent you being able to draw your sword or revolver.
A more practical reason is that the majority of people is right-handed making it easier to pour the wine with the right hand and pass on with the left.
This subject is discussed futher at the Sandeman website. See: www.sandeman.com/ing/dadosf.asp?cat=2&id=27
If a guest passes the Port incorrectly, he might be told that his “passport is out of order” or could be asked whether he knows the Bishop of Norwich. This “signal” does not require an answer, but should result in passing the Port. If unfortunately the guest does not understand the “signal” and answers that he does not know the bishop, the only correct response is: “The Bishop is an awfully good fellow, but he never passes the Port!”
Using a decanter with a rounded bottom can prevent the problem of not passing the Port. The Port then has to be passed around until the bottle is empty or at the most can be put in a holder in front of the host.

9. To combine.
We gladly match our Port in the late evening with a selection from: really dark chocolate, fresh chetnuts, walnuts, mixed nuts with raisins, cream cheese with ginger, hard cheeses (old Gouda) sometimes paired with quince marmalade or some home made apple spread, 20+ cumin cheese from Leiden, and sometimes with sausage or ham types. In short, a very personal, but also partly locally determined taste.

The much mentioned and praised combination of Vintage with Stilton cheese certainly does not have our preference. We think the taste of most blue cheeses is too pronounced.

But here also applies: don’t be dogmatic, there is no accounting for tastes. Select what you prefer yourself and don’t forget to also try products from your own region. The combinations list of the IVDP (see 10) can perhaps be of some help.

With regard to main dishes the pairing of Steak au Poivre/Pepper Steak with LBV or Vintage has by now become renowned.

Cigar smokers can be very enthusiastic about the combination with Port, but a veil of cigar smoke will adversely affect your ability to appreciate the aromas and flavours in your glass.
Good manners dictate that smoking should certainly not commence until the second passage of the decanter or bottle. For combinations with cigars see: www.realcompanhiavelha.pt/i_charutos.cfm

You can gain other ideas about matching on many sites on the Internet. Here are some links:
www.calem.pt/client.asp?fc=createpage&URL=client/skins/english&name=especialista and then choose Gastronomy (extensive suggestions).
www.cockburns-usa.com/about_port_pairing.html (well organized table with appetizers, main dishes and desserts).
www.martinez.pt/cgi-bin/sugestoes/pormenor.php?id=1 (some recipes for desserts).
www.realcompanhiavelha.pt/chocolate.cfm
www.sogrape.pt/gourmet (with many combination advices and a special taste disc).
www.taylor.pt/food.asp (with cheese and dessert combinations).

10. Some combinations.
In 2003 the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto (IVDP, formerly IVP) has published an extensive list of combinations. We have made the following selection:
White Port:
Canapé with capers.
Canapé with salmon caviar.
Canapé with pink shrimps.
Canapé with smoked salmon.
Filled green and black olives.
Different nuts.
Ruby / Reserve:
Canapé different cheeses.
Red wild fruit tart.
Fresh fruits salade with Port.
Aged Tawny / Colheita:
Dried plums, apricots and apples.
Goose livre pâté.
Pork pâté.
Dates fold round with bacon.
Dried figs.
Currants and raisins.
Nuts cake with sugared fruits.
Pie with caramelized apple slices.
Sorbet ice of almonds and caramel.
Gouda cheese with quince marmalade.
Frisian clove cheese.
LBV / Vintage:
Chocolate cake.
Strawberries sealed with chocolate.
Stilton, Roquefort.

11. Vintages.
Don’t be stingy when drinking Vintage Port Wines. You should carefully decant the bottle but keep in mind that the wine quickly oxidizes after contact with the air. Sometimes is said that it will keep for another 24 hours, but it will never ever improve. So please drink up and especially enjoy it to the full.
For information about Vintages for drinking now see Files/To store ...

12. Cocktails.
Most people will not give Port in cocktails a second thought.
Nevertheless, the Portonic has become a great success. It is made with equal parts of Dry White Port and tonic, with a slice of lemon or lime and one or two ice cubes. The versions with Sweet White and Light Dry White should also be given a try. The Portonic is served in a high, narrow long drink glass.
See also:
-         www.gporto.com choose “G Cocktails”.
-    www.sandeman.eu/pleasure/cocktails/en
-     www.realcompanhiavelha.pt/i_noticias.cfm?s=6&ss=8 with the Caipiroyal.

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